Below you can find the list of Army Painter paints required along with their Citadel equivalent. The colors aren't an exact match but they are close enough.
- Dragon Red / Evil Sunz Scarlet
- Pure Red / Wild Rider Red
- Lava Orange / Jakaero Orange
- Greenskin / Waaagh! Flesh
- Goblin Green / Moot Green
- Oak Brown / Mournfang Brown
- Leather Brown / Steel Legion Drab
- Desert Yellow / Tau Light Ochre
- Skeleton Bone / Ushabti Bone
- Uniform Grey / Dawnstone
- Matt Black / Abaddon Black
- Gun Metal / Leadbelcher
- Plate Mail Metal / Ironbreaker
- Soft Tone Ink / Seraphim Sepia
- Strong Tone Ink / Agrax Earthshade
- Red Ink / Carroburg Crimson
- Green Ink / Coelia Greenshade
- Basecoat: Dragon Red
- Wash: Strong Tone
- Drybrush: Pure Red
- Drybrush: Lava Orange
- Wash: Red Ink
As we already have the armors base color applied to the miniature it makes sense to start here. The first step is to apply a Strong Tone ink wash across the whole miniature to provide greater depth. This should then followed by a drybrush of Pure Red and then a lighter drybrush of Lava Orange. Applying the Lava Orange to only the top edges of the panels will provide a much better looking effect. With the drybrushing completed the final step is to wash the entire armor again with Red Ink, this will help to neaten up the drybrushing and provide a more consistant shade of red.
- Basecoat: Greenskin
- Wash: Green Ink
- Highlight: Greenskin + Goblin Green
- Highlight: Goblin Green
The basecoat of Greenskin followed by a wash of Green Ink gives a good smooth surface to work. The first highlight is a 50/50 mix of Greenskin and Goblin Green, this should be applied across all of the skin but leaving the Greenskin basecoat to show through in the recesses. Finally a thin highlight of Goblin Green should be applied to the extreme edges such as knuckles and facial features.
Loin Cloth + Armor Plates
- Basecoat: Matt Black
- Highlight: Uniform Grey
The loin cloth and a few armor plates were basecoated with Matt Black, It is entirely up to you with plates are painted black as mismatching armor plates live up to the Marauders rag tag nature With the basecoat completed I then applied a highlight of Uniform Grey on both the edges of the loin cloth and the armor plates.
- Basecoat: Oak Brown
- Wash: Strong Tone
- Highlight: Leather Brown
The leather straps should be base coated with Oak Brown, as the color is quite dark so you should only need a couple of thin layers will provide a consistent surface. Applying a Strong Tone ink wash will improve the definition between the straps and make it look less flat. The final step for the straps is a highlight of Leather Brown along the edges.
Teeth and Nails
- Basecoat: Desert Yellow
- Wash: Soft Tone Ink
- Highlight: Skeleton Bone
The teeth and fingernails were first painted in Desert Yellow to give that unkempt and dirty look. This was then followed by a wash of Soft Tone Ink to further enhance the effects of bad hygiene. A final highlight of Skeleton Bone was then applied to the tips of the nails and teeth. This steps should also be applied to any stitching found on the loin cloth.
- Basecoat: Gun Metal
- Wash: Dark Tone
- Highlight: Plate Mail Metal
The first step of painting the metal should be a basecoat of Gun Metal across the clasps and some armor panels. As with the black panels it is entirely up to which ones you choose to paint with metal. In order to dull the shine slightly you should apply a wash of Dark Tone to the metal areas. Finally, the metal should then be thinly highlighted with Plate Mail Metal.
So now that your Marauder Guard is fully painted he is ready to take to the pitch to smash in some skulls. While this tutorial focused on an Marauder these steps can be followed for any of the Marauder players, including the goblins. If you enjoyed this Dreadball tutorial be sure to check back soon as we will be showing how to paint the Corporation team members.
If you found this tutorial helpful please let us know in the comments as well as any other miniatures that you would like to see painting tutorials for.