Below you can find the list of Army Painter paints required along with their Citadel equivalent. The colors aren't an exact match but they are close enough.
- Chaotic Red / Wazdakka Red
- Fur Brown / Skrag Brown
- Barbarian Flesh / Bestigor Flesh
- Army Green / Castellan Green
- Necrotic Flesh / Nurgling Green
- Wolf Grey / Fenrisian Grey
- Matt White / White Scar
- Matt Black / Abaddon Black
- Ultramarine Blue / Caledor Sky
- Soft Tone Ink / Seraphim Sepia
- Strong Tone Ink / Agrax Earthshade
- Red Ink / Carroburge Crimson
- Green Ink / Biel-Tan Green
I primed my miniature using Chaotic Red in an airbrush, however if you don't have access to an airbrush you could use the Chaotic Red Spray Primer. Alternatively you could prime the miniature by painting on Chaotic Red with a brush however due to the size of the miniature this will be time consuming.
- Basecoat: Chaotic Red
- Drybrush: Fur Brown
- Drybrush: Barbarian Flesh
- Wash: Strong Tone Ink
- Wash: Red Ink
The brick is exceptionally easy to paint as it can be done with just dry brushing and washes. The Fur Brown drybrush will pick out most of the detailing in the bricks and should be applied all over. The second drybrush should be used to pick out the upper edges of the bricks with makes them look more natural, The Strong Tone wash can be freely applied to the entire brickwork to improve the definition of the bricks. At this stage your brick work will be looking a little too uniform, this can be remedied by picking out individual bricks with Strong Tone or Red Ink which will improve the variety.
- Basecoat: Army Green
- Wash: Green Ink
- Wash: Soft Tone
- Highlight: Necrotic Flesh
- Drybrush: Matt Black
Some of the wall panels include window frames and as I wanted the walls to be usable in both Mars Attacks and Bolt Action I wanted a more subdued tone. Therefore I chose a base colour of Army Green. This wash then washed with Green Ink followed by Soft Tone Ink to add both depth and to make them look more distressed. The window frames were completed with a highlight of Necrotic Flesh applied along the edges of the frames. The final step is to apply a drybrush of Matt Black to the broken parts of the frame to simulate scorch marks.
- Basecoat: Ultramarine Blue
- Layer: Ultramarine Blue + Wolf Grey 50/50 mix
- Highlight: Wolf Grey + Matt White 50/50 mix
Glass can be a little tricky to paint but I was able to achieve a relatively realistic effect by opting for blue colors. A basecoat of Ultramarine Blue was followed by a thinned mix of Ultramarine Blue and Wolf Grey. This was then finished off with a highlight of 50/50 Wolf Grey and Matt White.