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Welcome back to another How To Paint guide, this time we are taking a look at the Ogres from the Kings of War.

Making use of the Army Painters war paints we have a step by step guide for achieving a look similar to those painted by the Mantic studio. In addition to the written guide we have also created a video takes you through the steps from basecoat to finished miniature.

Video

Paints Required

Below you can find the list of Army Painter paints required along with their Citadel equivalent. The colors aren't an exact match but they are close enough.
  • Chaotic Red / Wazdakka Red
  • Dragon Red / Evil Sunz Scarlet
  • Oak Brown / Mournfang Brown
  • Leather Brown / Steel Legion Drab
  • Desert Yellow / Tau Light Ochre
  • Skeleton Bone / Ushabti Bone
  • Monster Brown / Baneblade Brown
  • Fur Brown / Skrag Brown
  • Uniform Grey / Dawnstone
  • Matt Black / Abaddon Black
  • Gun Metal / Leadbelcher
  • Plate Mail Metal / Ironbreaker
  • Weapon Bronze / Runelord Brass
  • Soft Tone Ink / Seraphim Sepia
  • Strong Tone Ink / Agrax Earthshade
  • Red Ink / Carroburg Crimson
  • Blue Ink / Drakenhof Nightshade

Priming

  • Basecoat: Matt Black

I primed my miniature using Matt Black in an airbrush, however if you don't have access to an airbrush you could use the Matt Black Spray Primer. Alternatively you could prime the miniature by painting on Matt Black with a brush however due to the size of the miniature this will be time consuming.

Skin

  • Basecoat: Chaotic Red
  • Wash: Red Ink
  • Highlight: Chaotic Red + Dragon Red
  • Highlight: Dragon Red

The skin is one of the most prevalent parts of the miniature so it makes sense to start here. The basecoat of Chaotic Red followed by a wash of Red Ink gives a good smooth surface to work. The first highlight is a 50/50 mix of Chaotic Red and Dragon Red, this should be applied across all of the skin but leaving the Chaotic Red to show through in the recesses. Finally a thin highlight of Dragon Red should be applied to the extreme edges such as knuckles and facial features.

Leather

  • Basecoat: Oak Brown
  • Wash: Strong Tone
  • Highlight: Leather Brown

The leather straps should be base coated with Oak Brown, as the color is quite dark so you should only need a couple of thin layers will provide a consistent surface. Applying a Dark Tone ink wash will improve the definition between the straps and make it look less flat. The final step for the straps is a highlight of Leather Brown along the edges.

Teeth and Nails

  • Basecoat: Desert Yellow
  • Wash: Soft Tone Ink
  • Highlight: Skeleton Bone

The teeth, fingernails and toenails were first painted in Desert Yellow to give that unkempt and dirty look. This was then followed by a wash of Soft Tone Ink to further enhance the effects of bad hygiene. A final highlight of Skeleton Bone was then applied to the tips of the nails and teeth.

Hair

  • Highlight: Uniform Grey

As the hair has already been primed black it only requires a thin Uniform grey highlight.

Loin Cloth

  • Basecoat: Monster Brown
  • Wash: Soft Tone Ink
  • Layer: Skeleton Bone

The loin cloth was basecoated with Monster Brown, it may struggle to completely cover the black basecoat on its first coat but a few thinned layers will provide a good surface to work from. The recesses were emphasized with a wash of Soft Tone Ink which also helped to tie to color together. Once the wash had dried a layer of Skeleton Bone was then applied. I applied several layers of thin skeleton bone providing a gradient between the darker recesses and the pure Skeleton Bone edges.

Foot Wraps

  • Basecoat: Monster Brown
  • Wash: Soft Tone Ink
  • Highlight: Leather Brown + Skeleton Bone

The foot wraps were painted in much the same way as the loin cloth. A basecoat of  Monster Brown was followed with a wash of Soft Tone Ink. However instead of a layer of Skeleton bone, the foot wraps were highlighted with a 50/50 mix of Leather Brown and Skeleton Bone along the edges. This was done in order to provide some contrast between the different cloths.

Swords, Shields and Armor

  • Drybrush: Gun Metal
  • Drybrush: Plate Mail Metal
  • Stipple: Fur brown

Before you begin the metal you may wish to tidy up any areas where the paint may have split over onto the armor. This can be done with Matt Black. Once you have a solid black surface again dry brush Gun Metal across all of the metallic areas such as sword, shields and armor. However be careful not spill over into other completed areas. Once this is done you will then need to drybrush Plate Mail Metal to the top edges of the metallic areas. At this stage the armor is probably looking a little too clean for an ogre, you can apply rust patches by stippling Fur Brown across the metal areas.

Bronze / Brass 

  • Layer: Weapon Bronze
  • Wash: Strong Tone Ink
  • Wash: Blue Ink

To represent the Ogres mercenary nature you can paint the weapon detailing as well as some panels of their armor and shields to look like bronze or brass. The first layer to apply is Weapon Bronze across a the shoulder plates, knee guards e.t.c. Once this is complete a wash of Strong Tone Ink should be applied to achieve greater definition. Finally, in order to simulate corrosion a wash of Blue Tone Ink applied to small areas around crevices should be applied.

Summary

And there we have it, a finished Kings of War Ogre. While this tutorial focused on an Ogre Warrior these steps can be followed for any of the Ogre miniatures. For the wooden stocks of the Shooters weapons you can follow the same steps for the foot wraps.

If you found this tutorial helpful please let us know in the comments as well as any other miniatures that you would like to see painting tutorials for.




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